I was stumped on how to design a side pocket for our rain jackets, but eventually, I got it figured out. Inspiration A common method is to inset the zipper, leave it exposed and add a shield at the top to prevent water from getting in. The zipper shield is a great idea for zippers... Continue Reading →
Basic Trousers with Front Dart
I have used a self-drafted trousers pattern for Ryan for some time because I've never found a pattern that does him justice. Ryan is 6 feet 5 inches. His inseam is 37 inches. He currently has a 32-inch natural waist and 42-inch hips. He's like a piece of paper, broad from the front and back... Continue Reading →
Review of a Slash and Overlap Method to Alter Patterns for Knock Knees
One of the cool features of VStitcher is being able to move the avatar into different positions. One of the positions I thought would be helpful to understand fit is a subtle knock-knees stance.
How to Fit Pants With a Laser Level: May Jeans From Make by TFS
Over the past few years, I've been pretty unsuccessful in making myself a pair of hard slacks that I liked selecting styles that don't spark joy. The Cass Pants from Make by TFS? I do NOT like pleats on my body. Before that, self-drafted trousers with pleats. What was I thinking! Persephone? I do NOT... Continue Reading →
Review of the Top-Down Center-Out Method
I'm writing this blog post because I want to feature a fellow maker doing some incredible work, and I don't want their efforts to get lost in any ol' blog post. I obviously have my own method and approach to fitting pants, and how I think about drape. The one aspect of pant fitting I... Continue Reading →
Men’s Joggers Comparison Guide: Part 3, Crotch
This will be my final blog post about men's jogger patterns. My three-part series walks you through my process with any new pant pattern I encounter: Measure key parts of the new pattern. Starting at the center of the ankle draw a vertical line up to the waistband as your center grainline. Measure the inside... Continue Reading →
Men’s Joggers Comparison Guide: Part 2, Drape
HandmadePhD, Grasser No191, True Bias Men's Hudson, Green Style Iron, Sinclair Lakeside, Jalie Henri In part 1 of this blog series, I introduced several men's jogger patterns: Grasser No191 (click here for Pinterest Board) True Bias Men's Hudson (click here for Pinterest Board) Green Style Iron (click here for Pinterest Board) Sinclair Lakeside (click here... Continue Reading →
Men’s Joggers Comparison Guide: Part 1, Measure
HandmadePhD Pattern Sometimes my curiosity gets the better of me and I end up down some really deep rabbit holes. This ended up being one of those big rabbit holes. The hole I jumped into was, "What actually constitutes a jogger pant". It has almost been a year since I dove into the theory behind... Continue Reading →
Balancing Front and Back Crotch Hook Lengths
I've covered a lot about balancing pants from left to right, but I haven't talked about balancing pants from front to back. The purpose of this post is to talk about something I've not seen discussed, and that is about getting the crotch point location correct. I will show you how to find your crotch... Continue Reading →
Crease Line Placement at the Knee
Center grainline evenly bisects at knee level. I'm researching how different pants are styled, and I realized I never officially explored how the center grainline placement at the knee level impacts fit and style. It has been almost a year since I talked about the center grainline or crease line placement at the hip level,... Continue Reading →
Vinyl Covers for Babylock Machines
I got a new machine last year and needed to make a cover. So I thought this would be perfect for updating all my serger/sewing machine covers. This was a super-fast project. It just requires some careful measurements, which is why I'm writing this post. I want to make sure I never lose my measurements... Continue Reading →
Grasser Sports Leggings 468
Just because leggings aren't considered pants doesn't mean they have to fit poorly. When I first started sewing, I did what every sewer does, I made leggings using a basic pattern. The standard design often does not have a side seam to "make it easier" for the beginner sewer. I prefer having side seams because... Continue Reading →