Closet Core Plateau Shorts

I can’t remember exactly when I made my first jersey knit shorts using the Peppermint Magazine Spring Shorts pattern, but it was definitely pre-pandemic! I wanted to clear out some extra jersey knit from Pico Textiles in my fabric stash. I decided to try the pattern to see how it worked in a knit fabric, even though the original design is for woven fabrics. I only meant for those shorts to be a short-term solution until I got better fabric. However, more than five years later, they are the only shorts that have lasted in my closet. All the other patterns I’ve made eventually ended up in the trash bin.

Last summer, when I was down to just my ratted, old Spring shorts, I wanted to make more. Unfortunately, my dad’s PTE surgery, hiking, and rehab got in the way. I knew I couldn’t go another summer wearing shorts full of holes. Now, I am slowly trying new patterns and making myself lounge shorts that aren’t just workout clothes.

Analyzing Style and Fit

The Plateau joggers feature a high rise, unique side pockets that eliminate the side seam, and a 2-inch wide elastic waistband. The pattern comes in two size ranges: 0–20 for hips 33 to 48 inches, and 14–32 for hips 45 to 63 inches. View A is a full-length jogger, which I am not reviewing here. View B is a pair of shorts with a 3.75 to 3.9-inch inseam and a scalloped hem for added interest. The pattern also includes optional back patch pockets. In terms of ease and fit, the pattern has positive ease at the hips, meaning the joggers are not intended to be tight.

I bought this pattern specifically for the unique side pocket construction. I love the look of a clean side with no seam because it adds fun visual interest. I am at the point with my sewing where I want to try patterns that offer something new I haven’t seen before. This pattern was perfect for that reason.

Sizing

The pattern comes in two different, non-overlapping size ranges. According to Closet Core’s site:

“Our 0-20 size range is based on a B cup bust with an average height of 5′-6″. Please note that B cup does not refer to bra sizing, but rather the difference in inches between high and full bust. A 2″ difference between those measurements is equivalent to a B cup (a difference of 1″= A cup, 2″ = B cup, 3″ = C cup etc.) If the difference between your high bust and full bust is higher than 2″, you may need to make a full bust adjustment for select patterns.”

“Our 14-32 size range is based on a D cup bust and pear-shaped lower body with an average height of 5′-6″. Please note that D cup does not refer to bra sizing, but rather the difference in inches between high and full bust; a 4″ difference between those measurements is equivalent to a D cup (a difference of 1″= A cup, 2″ = B cup, 3″ = C cup etc.). If the difference between your high bust and full bust is greater than 4″, you may need to make a full bust adjustment for select patterns. If the difference is smaller, you may need to make a small bust adjustment.”

If you compare the size 14 finished garment measurements, you can see the 0–20 size range has a smaller waist compared to the 14–32 range (33 inches versus 35 inches). A better comparison based on waist measurement would be a size 16 in the 0–20 range and a size 14 in the 14–32 range. Both have a 35-inch finished waist, but the other measurements differ:

• Hip: 46 vs 47.3
• Thigh: 28.6 vs 29.9
• Front Rise: 12 vs 9.8
• Total Crotch: 28.3 vs 29.3
• Inseam: 3.75 vs 3.9

If you pick a size based on hip measurements, then size 18 in the 0–20 range is more comparable to size 14 in the 14–32 range. Both have roughly the same finished hip measurement of 47 inches, a thigh measurement of almost 30 inches, and a total crotch length of 29 inches. However, the waist and front rise are vastly different:

• Waist: 37 vs 35
• Front Rise: 12.3 vs 9.8

What does this tell me? The 14–32 size range is definitely drafted for those with a greater difference between their hip and waist measurements, meaning it is for curvier figures. The front rise is slightly shorter but the overall crotch length is roughly the same, which gives more room for the booty! You definitely cannot simply swap between the same size numbers across the two ranges.

I also plotted the body size chart against the finished garment measurements to make sure nothing odd cropped up. Closet Core patterns are well-established, so I wasn’t expecting any mistakes, and I didn’t find anything alarming. Whew!

The hip ease makes a lot of sense too. There is slightly more ease in the smaller sizes and slightly less ease in the larger sizes. I have seen ease addressed in many ways across size charts, but this grading method makes the most sense for this pattern style. Every size has several inches of ease, and a little is added or removed across the range to ensure all sizes maintain the same aesthetic look. You wouldn’t want to see all the ease removed on larger sizes, comically ridiculous amounts added to smaller sizes, or random ease changes based on size.

My body measurements haven’t changed much since I last made shorts: 39-inch bust, 33 to 34-inch waist, and a 45-inch lower torso. As always, I used my measuring band method for the lower torso. My hips are technically 42 inches, but the measuring band gives a more consistent fit reference when picking pattern sizes. Because I measure 45 inches with the measuring band, I ended up making a size 16 from the 0–20 size range.

Materials

Last August, I ordered a bunch of Minerva Core Cotton Lycra Jersey, but they accidentally sent the wrong fabric for one of my cuts. The mystery fabric was the correct color, but it was much heavier, double-knit, and looked like a Ponte di Roma. I knew it was a double-knit because the raw edges didn’t curl. Single-knit fabrics are notoriously frustrating because their raw edges love to curl.

My guess was that they sent me the Minerva Core Heavy Ponte Roma Double Stretch Knit. This fabric is 60% Viscose, 35% Polyester, and 5% Elastane at 360 GSM, whereas the Lycra Jersey I ordered is 95% Cotton and 5% Elastane.

I am usually hesitant about using viscose and polyester blends and it is very difficult to find 100% cotton Ponte di Roma fabric. My guess is that because the knit stitch is so tight, it requires a very thin thread. Unless you use something premium like Supima cotton, you can’t get cotton thread fine enough for the Ponte stitch. Since Supima cotton is expensive, manufacturing cotton Ponte isn’t in high demand. That is just my guess.

Despite my misgivings about the blend, I fell in love with my first pair of shorts. I ended up ordering samples of what I thought was the mystery fabric to confirm. I ordered the Minerva Core Heavy Ponte Roma, along with two other options: Meet MILK Tencel Lyocell Ponte Roma Double Stretch Knit and the Meet MILK Two-Tone version. The Meet MILK fabric is 68% Tencel Lyocell, 27 to 30% Nylon, and 2 to 5% Elastane, ranging from 280 to 330 GSM. As far as I can tell, my final garment is made from Minerva Core Heavy Ponte Roma. I wasn’t happy with the Meet MILK fabric. The solid was OK but I didn’t love the color options. The Two-Tone version was thin and see-through. I ended up buying more Minerva Core Heavy Ponte Roma to make a couple more shorts.

The Challenge of Checking Balance on Shorts

It’s a little more difficult to check pattern balance when you don’t have a full pant leg to work with. Yes, technically I could check the balance on the full-length version of these joggers and extrapolate those findings to the shorts, but this post is all about the shorts!

The first hurdle is figuring out where to place the center drapeline. Without a hem at or below the knee, there’s no foolproof way to locate it.