This project began in the summer of 2023, and by January 2024, the first draft of this manual was complete. However, as life often does, unexpected challenges delayed its progress. Over the past year, I’ve steadily refined and improved the draft, and now it feels ready to share with the world.
One of my original goals for this project was to collaborate with makers in the community—to test the method, evaluate the results, and build a comprehensive database of body types and examples. The plan envisioned a mini research study involving online Zoom consultations to discuss the method, review steps, and aid in documentation. Unfortunately, ongoing health challenges have made it difficult for me to undertake such a large-scale project.
Even so, I hope this manual remains a living document, one that evolves and grows through community collaboration. If you’re interested in contributing, I wholeheartedly encourage you to share your experiences, photos, or feedback about the method by emailing me. Your input is invaluable and will help shape and improve this resource for everyone.
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The laser showed that my balance line is 3 inches ffrom my CF and CB. My pattern’s balance line is 4.5 inches from Cf and CB. It makes sense that my balance line is closer to CF and CB–my hips are very wide side to side and very flat front to back.
But when I remove 1.5 inches from my inseam at the crotch, I take out 95% of the front crotch curve.
Is this right?
I am using a Burda pattern, and have picked the correct pattern size. The pattern has about 2.5 inches of ease at the hip in my size, which seems fine for a fitted straight leg pant.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated, and thank you for your many great posts.
Hi, so if you want to send me an email at naomi “at” handmadephd “dot” com, I can send you additional images if needed if my answer doesn’t make sense. Whenever you make the change to the center grainline placement, the crotch hook length should not change. The change you are trying to make isn’t about reducing the circumference of anything, but adjusting how the upper torso “tube” fits with the leg “tubes” so everything hangs straight for your body.
In other words, the horizontal crotchline should always be positioned at the seamline of the pattern. This means it should not include the seam allowance at the junction of the crotch hook and inseam. When you cut along the crotchline, you should preserve the crotch hook length and shape. When you redraw your lines, you go from the torso down to the kneeline. I have a recent post, “Closet Core Plateau Shorts,” that goes over the method of drawing from the upper part down to the knee in order to preserve the crotch hook length.
Thank you so much for this booklet. I’m slowly working my way through after a couple of readings. So far have a one-Legged muslin and some photos to compare with the drawings. Have already learned a lot about the interplay of waistband and my own shape, and no doubt will learn plenty more as I go through.
This is an incredible resource and I can’t thank you enough.
I have a laser on order and will be working my way though the steps once it arrives.
Your work is much appreciated by this reader and I now feel more confident I might finally make a pair of pants that fit.
My engineer husband has offered help and having the process comprehensively documented will be SO useful in educating him!
Thanks again. Susan
I have now read through this a couple of times. For the first time I can see a good reason to make a one leg muslin first. It really helps me see where there is excess fabric or fabric needs to be added, in addition to visualizing the shape changes needed. This is a huge help!
This is a remarkable book. Thank you very much for sharing. The amount of work and effort to put this together is incredible. I have never had a pair of pants fit correctly and now feel I have the information needed to try again. Thanks again. I really enjoy and appreciate your posts. Jackie
Wow! This is amazing! Thank you!