Brassie Joggers from Green Style

Winter is lasting extra long this year. I was going to put off this project until autumn, but then I remembered I may want some warm baselayer joggers for fishing and camping this summer in the Uintas. So, a few months ago, I tested the Brassie Joggers with Browzwear. The fit was really close to perfect on the avatar. I needed to narrow the front and back grainline by 0.7 inches. Interestingly, as you will read below, I altered my version similarly.

Analyzing Style and Fit

Style

The pattern doesn’t have official images, so I’m borrowing from one of the many pattern testers. The joggers have three different rises: low, medium, and high. Each rise option has 6 different leg lengths: shorts, long shorts, Capri, ankle length with cuffs, and two different ankle lengths with no cuff (30″ and 32″ inseam). All leg variations have a tapered leg. In addition, the pattern includes two types of side pockets: a curved pocket or a zippered pocket. The waistband is a straight elastic band, but the center front is significantly lower than the center back, which gives the waistband a curved look.

In terms of fit, the joggers obviously have a fitted waistband. The back torso and hips will be contoured but not tight. Depending on the body, the front torso will be anywhere from relaxed to skimming the body. The vertical ease is minimal on these joggers, and the bottom of the crotch curve should fit near the body. The pant legs are relaxed from the hips to the knees. However, the legs from the knee to the ankles are slim and tight.

Fit

Materials and Notions

Polartec® Power Grid™ 9110 OR

I used Polartec® Power Grid™ 9110 OR for my joggers, purchased from Ripstop by the Roll. This fabric can be found on garments like Patagonia R1® Fleece, Mountain Hardwear Polartec® Power Grid™, and Burton [ak] Helium Power Grid™. For my zippers, I used YKK #3 7-inch nylon coil non-separating zippers from Wawak.com.

Determining my Size

Body Measurements

SizeWaistHipMid ThighCalf
B22-2332-3317.75-19.511.5-12.5
C24-2534-3518.25-2012-13.375
D26-2735-3618-75-20.512.75-14
E28-2937-3819.5-21.2513.25-14.5
F30-3139-4020.25-2213.75-15
G32-3441-4321-22.7514.25-15.5
H35-3743-4522-23.7515-16.25
I38-4145-4723.5-25.2516.25-17.75
J42-4548-5125-2717.5-19
K46-4951-5427-2918.75-20.25
L50-5355-5829-3120-21.5
M54-5759-6231-3321.25-22.75

My current body measurements are a 36-inch waist, 44-inch hip, 24-inch mid-thigh, and 16.5-inch calf. However, if I account for my anterior tilting pelvis, my hip measures 46 inches. Therefore, I should make a size “I” based on my body measurements. The waist will have extra room, but that’s fine.

OH NO, THERE ARE NO FINAL GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

The pattern, unfortunately, does not come with a final garment table, so I used the Adobe Acrobat measurement tool to confirm some measurements.

Where I took the measurements

For the waist, I measured the waistband. Not shown, I also decided later to measure the top of the pants to compare with the waistband circumference. For the hip, I tried to find the widest part of the hips, which is roughly level with the top of the crotch curve. The hip level changes for each size, so I’ve shown where I measured for the smallest size, “B,” and the largest size, “M.” All the other sizes are measured between these two levels. For the mid-thigh, I measured at the “Shorts” level. For the calf, I measured at the “Capri” level.

The waistband (“O”) has negative ease compared to the top of the pant pieces (“X”). If you are trying out this pattern and are on the upper end of the sizes, give yourself enough room for the waistband. You can always remove the length from the waistband piece. However, it is harder to add length; you’ll have a pieced-together waistband. The joggers are drafted to have more room than the recommended body measurements, but I think the waistband isn’t drafted well for the larger sizes.

I wasn’t sure where to take the hip measurement, so these pattern values are incredibly crude. Aside from the inaccurate measurements, the information I derive from this figure is that the final hip measurement of the pattern will be close to the suggested body size, and if you want more ease, just go up a size.

I am unsure why I see a deviation in fit across the sizes? I recommend adding extra material along the side seam if uncertain about the mid-thigh fit.

The calf will be tight across all sizes and gets tighter the larger the size. I noticed on my first muslin that the calf had negative ease, so I had to undo the stitches around this area to try on my joggers. It’s a sensory thing for me, but I hate joggers that bind to my calves.

Pattern Version

I am sewing the version with:

  • High Rise
  • Zippered pockets
  • Long length (approximately 32-in inseam)
  • No cuffs

First Muslin with Laser Level

First, I confirmed that the center grainline of the pattern bisected the horizontal knee level. The front is off by 1/8 inch, and the back leg is perfect. I didn’t bother making any changes since the change is minimal. Next, I evaluated the center grainline placement of the pattern.

These joggers have tapered legs, so it won’t be apparent when the leg swings inward or outward. Remember that the leg will swing when the pattern’s center grainline does not match my body’s center grainline (i.e., laser line).

The front center grainline of the pattern is 1/2 inch too lateral. You can’t see the leg swing from the front, but you can see the twisted fold of fabric around the outside of my knee. This happens when the leg is too tight to swing, so it twists and bunches instead.

The back center grainline is also 1/2 inch too lateral. From the back, you can see the back leg hem swinging toward the inseam. For both pattern pieces, I used the bottom of the crotch curve to determine how far off the center grainline is from my body instead of the top of the crotch curve. It worked well with the Shop Pants, so I tried it again with this pattern.

Adjustments and Alterations

I did not find that joggers were actually high-rise. I often have to remove a lot on most patterns, but this was a rare moment for me. I needed to add 1 inch to the center front. Whoa. I know. Very untypical.

Next, I fixed the center grainline for the front and back pieces. That meant I cut across the horizontal level at the bottom of the crotch curve and shifted the torso 1/2 inch lateral toward the side seam. I redrew the new side seam from the hip down to the knee and from the bottom of the crotch curve back to the knee.

Finally, I removed the shaping from the knee to the ankle. The pattern curves inward to make the calves even tighter. I found the fit to be too tight, so I simply drew a straight line from the knee to the ankle, in effect removing the shaping. That gave me enough room, so the joggers were no longer too tight.

Original Pattern in Grey
Altered Pattern in Red

Toile

I haven’t added the extra 1 inch to the center front on my toile. You can see that even the “high-rise” fit isn’t reaching my belly button. I wouldn’t consider these joggers high-rise.

I used some super old Ponte knit from my stash. I love the print of this fabric, but I hate that it contains polyester. The material is a static nightmare, so it would never work in a final garment. However, it is a decent fabric to test the final fit because it doesn’t have a ton of stretch, similar to my final Polartec® fabric. I don’t have any fabric twisting around my calves, so yay.

Final Fit

Conclusions

I’m not convinced I’ll like the Polartec® fabric, but I won’t know until I wear the joggers for a walk. I don’t care for polyester fibers. However, I have confirmed the fabric does not build up static, which was a big concern of mine. The winters here in Utah are very dry, and static is the enemy. Overall, I’m happy with the fit of the joggers, and I’m glad I have a pattern that isn’t just my self-drafted version.

What I Like

  • I love the variety of leg lengths.
  • The two types of pockets are also fantastic.
  • The size range is inclusive, and there are plenty of sizes across the range.
  • I appreciate the pattern is drafted with the center grainline bisecting the knee on the back piece and is close enough to perfect on the front piece.

What I Don’t Like

  • I appreciate that the joggers are shown across various body sizes and shapes in the tester versions. However, I would have liked to see the intended fit based on photos provided by the pattern maker.
  • The pattern should include a final garment measurement table in addition to the body measurement chart. Based on my rudimentary measurements, knowing more about the final garment measurement of the waistband, top of the joggers, mid-thigh, and calf would be helpful.
  • Even though I made the high-rise version, I would not consider the rise high. It would be helpful to include the final garment rises with the pattern.
  • I wish there were back-pocket options as well.

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