Pardon the short tangent. I wanted to try another slim leg to adjust the center grainline at the hip and study what happens with knock-knees. Also, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to try a drawstring jogger when it came up in my tutorials.
Sizing and Rulers
I adjusted the avatar to match the measurements for size J (waist 42in, and hips 51in). I added the center grainline to the pants by finding the middle of the ankle and drawing a vertical line. The horizontal knee line is provided in the pattern. I also drew a hip reference line at the top of the front and back crotch curve. After altering the pattern, I removed the knee reference line.
I realize I should be describing the fabric used so the drape and fit of the garment is better understood. For the front and back joggers, I choose French Terry, 95% Cotton, 5% Spandex, 220 g/m2. For the waistband and cuffs, I choose Rib 2×2, 95% Cotton, 5% Elastane, 216 g/m2.
Fit and Style
The Brassie Joggers have been well-tested across many body sizes. You can view them on their website here. I did a quick comparison fit with another famous pattern, the Hudson pants from True Bias. I definitely like the fit of the Brassie over the Hudson. The Brassie pattern without any alterations looks loads better.
The pattern is drafted with the center grainline at the middle of the knee reference line. Hip Hip Hooray! The center grainline at the hip could be adjusted. I wanted to see how it would work using a virtual laser level (i.e., the light blue line).
To narrow the center grainline at the hip, I moved the torso towards the side seam by 0.7 inches for both the front and back pattern pieces.
Now my light blue laser lines up at the ankle, knee, and hip. It also resolved the fabric bunching in the crotch area and helped smooth out draglines on the legs.
I hope I get time this winter to make cold-weather hiking joggers, which will be the pattern I use. I will be able to fit my waistband, adjust the vertical ease, and with little effort, get the center grainline placement at my hips set with a laser level. I really love studying patterns this way, and I hope you do too. Thanks as always for reading!
This is so interesting! I’m loving your dives into various patterns.
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