I have faced some scary health challenges this last month that have forced me to completely change some of my sewing plans. One project that was particularly urgent was making some overnight period underwear. The pattern that came to mind was Jalie 4344 Sarah since it offered a ton of protection.
Analyzing Style and Fit
The pattern is for both period underwear and reusable pads. For the underwear, you can choose a high or lower waist and protection (day/night). Otherwise, the fit of the underwear looks moderately generous for the butt and has a high cut for the front.
Materials and Notions
You need lots of different fabrics for this project and I got all my supplies at Bra Builders:
- Crotch lining: https://www.brabuilders.com/collections/period-panties/products/stay-dry-wicking-crotch-fabric
- Absorbent layers: https://www.brabuilders.com/collections/period-panties/products/natural-fiber-absorbent-fabric
- Waterproof knit layer: https://www.brabuilders.com/collections/period-panties/products/waterproof-fabric-polyurethane-laminate-pul
- Main fabric: https://www.brabuilders.com/collections/panty-and-cami-fabrics/products/microfiber-stretch-fabric
- 3/4 inch fold over elastic: https://www.brabuilders.com/collections/fold-over-elastic/products/foldover-elastic-5-8
I ordered 1/2 yard of crotch lining, absorbent fabric, and PUL, 1 yard of main fabric, and 10 yards of fold-over elastic. I was able to make exactly 4 pairs of overnight underwear with nothing leftover.
Sizing and Body Measurements
Sizing
The pattern ranges from 20-7/8 to 46-1/8 inch waist and 20-7/8 to 53-7/8 inch hips. The sizes are from F-GG. If you need a more size-inclusive pattern with similar styling, I recommend Kapunda Undies from Muna and Broad. Unfortunately, you would have to draft your own absorbency layers, and you might have to tweak the pattern pieces a bit.
Body Measurements
Size | Y | Z | AA | BB | CC | DD |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Waist | 33-7/8 | 35-3/8 | 36-7/8 | 38-3/8 | 40 | 41-1/2 |
Hip | 42-7/8 | 44-1/4 | 45-5/8 | 47 | 48-3/8 | 49-3/4 |
I highly recommend making a muslin of this pattern. My body measurements during my period are 38 inches in the waist (due to bloating) and 44 inches in the hips. However, when I measure the widest part of my hips using a measuring band, I measure 46.5 inches. I am pretty close to size BB, but based on my experience, I know that the fabric and all the extra materials stiffen the underwear, so going up one size is not a bad idea. Therefore, I ended up making a size CC.
Pattern Adjustments
Let’s start out with the pattern pieces that got altered. I wanted to finish all my edges with fold-over elastic, so I needed to adjust the rise first. I raised the center front 1-1/4 inches and left the center back as-is. The other adjustment was to provide a bit more coverage around my butt. I added 1/2 inch to the bottom of the back side seam.
Because I wanted to finish all my edges with fold-over elastic, I needed to ensure my side front and back seams matched. The original pattern they are 1/8 different because of how the underwear is constructed.
The pieces I adjusted are A and B. I also changed piece G, the overnight absorbant layer.
Finally, instead of Piece I for the PUL layer, I used Piece A to cut out the crotch lining, PUL layer, and main fabric. Piece I is nearly identical to Piece A except that 1/4 inch is removed around the inner leg.
Final Underwear
Conclusions
I like this pattern because of the unique approach to making absorbent period underwear. It is super easy to sew, and you don’t have to deal with matching curves like you do with the Sophie Hines period panties pattern. I always get puckers in my curves because of the multiple layers.
I also love this pattern because you can adjust the absorbency to what you need. The overnight version protects you from front to back, plus you add two strips of extra absorbent fabric. You could always add more or fewer of the absorbent strips down the center of the underwear.
My quick tip for this pattern is to consider using a three-step or triple zigzag stitch instead of just a regular zigzag stitch. I skipped stitches occasionally because of the bulky fabric with the regular zigzag, but when I moved to the triple zigzag, I had no problem sewing through multiple layers.
Happy sewing!
Helpful review! I’ve been trying out this pattern too and just thought I’d mention that the PDF version has a plus size range that goes up to 66-1/8″ hips. This pattern is not easy to find on Jalie’s website which is strange. While I think it’s a good pattern overall, I’m not a fan of how the leg holes are finished (and I curse clear elastic for this and used regular for my tester) so your adjustments for using FOE should put me on the right track for using plush back elastic. Currently, though, I’m about to just cut up a pair of RTW and use it for a pattern that I know fits and supplement with the Jalie pieces for the inner layers. I hope you’re on the mend!
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That’s interesting. I absolutely missed the extended size range with this pattern. I found the pattern originally through Bra Builder’s website instead of Jalie. I’m not sure I would have seen the pattern on Jalie’s site since it’s hard to find. Best of luck on your pattern adventures!
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Sorry to hear you were unwell. Hopefully you are on the mend. Janice
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Thank you so much for the well wishes. My recovery is going OK. I’m just taking it day by day right now.
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Thank you for your typically excellent review and suggestions. I hope your health issues are resolving.
Cynthia
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Thank you!
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In the 1970s, we used paper briefs. They weren’t very comfortable.
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I’m trying to avoid that. I know you can buy overnight briefs for full protection, but I have to think what I made is slightly more comfortable. Fingers crossed.
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