Hey June Handmade Union St Tee v3.0

The Union St Tee has been my go-to pattern for a while now. My first post about the Union St Tee was in June 2019. I made a size XL, did my typical 1/2 inch forward shoulder alteration, lowered the front shoulder, and scooped out some of the armscye. One year later, in June 2020, I revisited the pattern. I used the same size XL. This time, I made my 1/2 inch forward shoulder alteration and scooped out the armscye, but I also lowered the armhole 1/2 inch. Because I dropped the armhole, I had to widen the sleeve curve 1/2 inch on either side. Check out my previous posts since these descriptions are super brief.

Because our bodies never stop changing, I’ve noticed that I’m wanting a little more ease in my shirts these days. Took until my 40s, but I’m finally experiencing breast tissue swelling and excessive bloating during my cycle. The last thing I want to wear when my body is swollen is anything fitted. The baggier, the better. I revisited the Union St Tee, knowing I wanted to make a size 1X.

Analyzing Style and Fit

The Union St Tee has three necklines: scoop, crew, and V. The fit of the body is loose but not baggy. The arms are slightly more fitted. The shirt is subtly shaped, with the waist narrower and the hips wider. The bottom hem is curved. I have found the pattern to be a great wardrobe basic.

There are no wrinkles or excess fabric around the armhole above the chest level. The shirt skims across the body from the shoulder past the chest.

I also love the scoop neckline.

For the V-neck, I’m not sure if it is the pattern or how the model is standing, but it looks like there’s some fabric pooling around the armhole. The V-neck is really deep and wide, and this may be changing the way that the shirt is balanced on the body and drapes? More on this later.

Materials

The fabric I make nearly all shirts from is the cotton spandex jersey from Pico Textiles. It’s inexpensive, high-quality, and super reliable.

Sizing

The Union St tee comes with two different bust versions. If your bust measurement is more than 3 inches bigger than your high bust measurement, you have the option to use the full bust adjustment piece.

	XXS	XS	S	M	L	XL	1X	2X	3X
High Bust	29	31	33.5	35.5	38	40.5	43	45	47
Bust	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48

My current measurements are high bust 42 and bust 40. My body is the opposite of “normal,” where my high bust measurement is bigger than my full bust measurement. I know I don’t need the FBA alteration. Additionally, I already knew I wanted to make a size 1X, which makes sense based on my high bust measurement. I’m between sizes XL and 1X.