Browzwear: Tula Pants from Papercut Patterns

I recently made the Tula shorts and was pleasantly surprised by how well they fit and how well the pattern was designed. However, I am working with another sewer in the curve size range and realized the drafting is dramatically different. The two size ranges share overlapping sizes (6, 7, and 8). This post compares the size 8 narrow-leg version from the 1-8 size range and the 6-14 size range.

Papercut pattern describes the difference between the two size ranges, “If you fit into both the 1 – 8 and the 6 – 14 size ranges and you’re unsure which size to purchase, the biggest difference between the two is the 6 – 14 size range has been drafted for a larger bust cup and a curvier figure.”

Size Chart

	Size 8 1-8 Size Range	Size 8 6-14 Size Range	Difference between Size Ranges
Bust	46.5	46.5	0
Waist	38.6	39.8	1.2
Hip	48.8	49.6	0.8

There is a difference in waist and hip circumference between the two sizes, although it is less than an inch at the hip. The pants have an elastic waistband, which means the 1.2-inch difference at the waist should not be a major issue. Unfortunately, I cannot utilize the finished garment table as I do not have a method for measuring my avatar while seated to determine if the hips have adequate ease in the finished garment. However, I strongly suggest using the finished garment table as a guide when selecting your size.

Pattern Comparison

The 1-8 size range is in blue, and the 6-14 size range is in green. I’ve aligned the patterns in different ways to show similarities and differences between the two size ranges. Remember, these are both size 8 pants.

First, the ankle is the same width, and the legs look similar in length. The hem circumference is the same between the two pattern pieces. Both sizes will taper to roughly the same amount at the ankle.

Second, the 1-8 size range has a shorter crotch depth than the 6-14 size range. Crotch depth refers to the vertical measurement between the top of the garment’s waistband to the bottom of the crotch, where the legs meet.

I didn’t label the knee level but see, in the 6-14 size range, the center grainline does not bisect the knee level. The center grainline bisects the knee on the smaller size range (blue pattern) piece. The 6-14 size range pattern pieces are drafted with ~1 inch extra at the side seam.

Third, the major difference between the two patterns is the location of the center grainline. The 1-8 size range places the center grainline further away from the center seam, giving the pants a straighter fit from the crotch level down. The 6-14 size range places the center grainline nearer the center seam, giving the pants a curvier fit from the crotch level down.

Fourth, the front and back crotch lengths have been extended significantly, giving the wearer more room across the saddle area of the crotch. The added length in the larger size range would be helpful for someone with prominent front or back body parts that need extra space.

Fifth, I noticed that the waistline is nearly similar in width even though the 1-8 size range is lower than the 6-14 size range. The 1-8 size range is slightly smaller to better match the recommended body range but not significantly smaller.

Sixth, the front knee is wider in the 6-14 size range. This will give more room for the front thighs because the pants don’t taper as much at the knees.

Last, the back knee is the same width across the two size ranges.