My go-to summer shirt is the Union St Tee from Hey June Handmade. That’s all I wear. However, I want to expand my options if I can. I love the look of the Zoey Tank from True Bias, and I was curious about the neckline finish. It looks super neat and clean.
I have less experience fitting my upper body, and it shows. I struggled to alter this pattern because I don’t have a systematic method like I do for pants. I’ll try to break down my approach and thought process. My upper body is definitely harder to fit than my lower body.
Analyzing Style and Fit
The Zoey tank is perfect to pair with high-waisted summer shorts, which is why I wanted to make the tank. The front features a V front neckline, a low scoop back neckline, and 5/8 inch straps that are an extension of the armhole bands. View A is a fitted crop tank, View B is a fitted tank ending at the hips, and View C is a tank dress.
Materials and Notions
I made my tank top using Meet Milk Derby Ribbed Jersey in Emerald. The material is a medium-weight ribbed stretch jersey made with 95% TENCEL and 5% elastane. The material is 230 g/m2 (~7.4 oz). The elastane takes comfort to the next level, offering an extraordinary buttery soft touch with high elasticity and an even higher level of comfort with a lovely relaxed, and fluid drape.
Sizing and Version
Size Charts
The Zoey Tank comes in two different size ranges. The first is Sizes 0-18 and was drafted with a C cup (3″ difference between high bust and full bust).
| SIZE | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CHEST | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37.5 | 39 | 40.5 | 42.5 | 44.5 |
The second size range is 14-32 and was drafted with a D cup (4″ difference between high bust and full bust).
| SIZE | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 | 30 | 32 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CHEST | 41.5 | 43.5 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49.5 | 51.5 | 53.5 | 55.5 | 57.5 | 59.5 |
However, it’s frustrating because the size chart doesn’t provide the full and high bust measurements, only the chest measurements. Here’s what the charts should look like if the high bust was included.
| SIZE | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| HIGH BUST | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34.5 | 36 | 37.5 | 39.5 | 41.5 |
| FULL BUST | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37.5 | 39 | 40.5 | 42.5 | 44.5 |
For Sizes 0-18, subtract 3 inches from the chest (AKA full bust) and that should give you the recommended high bust measurement.
| SIZE | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 | 30 | 32 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| HIGH BUST | 37.5 | 39.5 | 41.5 | 43.5 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49.5 | 51.5 | 53.5 | 55.5 |
| FULL BUST | 41.5 | 43.5 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49.5 | 51.5 | 53.5 | 55.5 | 57.5 | 59.5 |
For Sizes 14-32, subtract 4 inches from the chest, giving you the recommended high bust measurement.
Body Measurements
My high bust measures 42 inches, and my bust is 39 inches. Do you see the problem? Your high bust is assumed to be smaller than your full bust, which is not true for me. If I picked my size based on my full bust, I would choose size 12. However, I must select my size based on my high bust measurement, not my full bust. So, based on my high bust measurement, I should start with size 18. That’s 3 sizes bigger than my full bust measurement!
Version
I started with Version A, the cropped fitted tank, in size 18 within the 0-18 size range, and then everything went off the rails…
Fitting Method
Notice in all the examples above where the straps sit on the body. The straps should fit just medial to the acromion, the bony process at the top of the shoulder. This little tidbit will become relevant with my first muslin.
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