Tula Shorts from Papercut Patterns

Summer is approaching fast, and I’ve put off making shorts for several years. I can’t avoid the task any longer. The biggest hurdle I had adjusting shorts was determining how to find the center grainline and then how to make adjustments. To test my approach, I started with a simple pattern, the Tula shorts from Papercut Patterns. This blog post is about my fitting method for shorts. TL;DR I have no idea how to adjust shorts without starting with full-length legs.

Materials and Notions

I’m skipping the fit and style section because the Tula pants are basic elastic waist pants, and there’s little to discuss. I made my shorts using Meet Milk Mara Linen Blend in Mustard. The material is a medium-weight plain weave fabric made with TENCEL (72%) and linen (28%). The material is 200 g/m2 (~6 oz) and has a fluid drape. I was shocked by the fabric when it arrived because it gave me Sound of Music vibes. The weave of the material makes it look like drapery or upholstery fabric. It has a lovely flow, but the weave is singular.

Sizing and Version

Body Measurements

Sizes	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8
Bust	29.9	32.3	34.6	37	39.4	41.7	44.1	46.5
Waist	22	24.4	26.8	29.1	31.5	33.9	36.2	38.6
Hip	32.3	34.6	37	39.4	41.7	44.1	46.5	48.8

My current body measurements are a 36-inch waist and a 44-inch hip. If I consider my anterior tilting pelvis, my hip measures 46 inches. I made the Mirri Jumpsuit from Papercut Patterns not that long ago in a size 7, so I was certain I needed to select the same size again.

Final Garment Measurements

Sizes	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8
Waist w/o elastic	32.9	35.2	37.6	40	42.3	44.7	47	49.4
Hip	36.4	38.8	41.1	43.5	45.9	48.2	50.6	53
Length waist-hem	14.4	14.6	15	15.2	15.6	15.8	16.1	16.4

As with any elastic waist pants, the waistband must be big enough to stretch over the widest part of your body. For example, the size 7 waist without elastic is 47 inches and will easily fit over my 44-inch hips. Notice that the size 6 waist is 44.7 inches, which would be difficult to get over my hips, especially with any subtle changes to my circumference. The other thing to consider is the final hip measurement compared to my seated hip measurement. My seated hip circumference is about 47 inches, and the final garment has 50.6 inches at the hip. That gives me enough room to easily sit in my shorts. Finally, I’m not sure what information the length from the waist to the hem provides. It’s an odd value to give instead of providing front and back rise and inseam length.

Version

I made the shorts in size 7.