Sewing · Slow Fashion

True Bias Emerson Crop Pant in Linen

I struggle with summer outfits. Namely, I haven’t been able to find a style that I can wear to work. I only need to be casually dressed for work, but wearing sneakers, shorts, and a t-shirt is a bit too casual. I don’t mind dresses, but I need outfits that don’t look bad with sneakers. I was super inspired by this outfit I saw during this year’s Me Made May extravaganza!

You can see my version of a basic woven shirt here.

I made the same pants, True Bias Emerson Crop Pants. It took me two test pairs and a frenzy of edits to get the pants to a point where I think they look OK. I, unfortunately, did not follow any rhyme or reason with my edits. These pants weren’t easy for me to figure out, but I thought I would do my best to guide you through my changes.

Here’s a tracing of the original pattern.

I just went ahead and did a “knock knee” alteration of ½ inch before making my first test pair. I just found this great tutorial on how and why you would want to do this alteration:

The rest of my alterations are the result of frenzy sewing and futzing. I needed to remove little segments of fabric here and there while at the same time not over fit. These are elastic waist, pull-on pants. If you over fit them, then you won’t be able to pull them on. Trying to make pants fit when they have a generous amount of ease in the pattern is so hard!

On my front piece, I finally settled on removing a ½-inch from the center front seam but grading it back into the front crotch curve. On my back piece, I removed ½-inch from the side seam and graded it back into the side seam along the hip. Finally, I removed ½-inch from the top center back and graded it down to nothing at the new side seam location.

The back crotch curve and center back seam needed a lot of adjustment. I was sewing and fitting back and forth for hours trying to get this curve just right. I finally settled on adding about ½-inch to the center back and deepening the crotch curve by ½ – ¾”.

Finally, I added 6-inches in length. Luckily this pattern is designed that you can add length at the bottom and not somewhere in the middle of the leg. I would suggest making your cropped pants super duper long and then chopping off the length you don’t want. I had to try my pants on with every shoe possible to see what length was universally suitable for all my outfits. I was looking for a cropped pant length, not a capri length.

Here’s the final version of changes. The original pattern is in grey the final version is in red.

As you can see, there are probably other ways I could have gotten to these same results. I probably would have gotten my edits done quicker if I understood how all my changes altered fit. I just spent hours sewing, pinning, editing until I got things looking good.

I can say now that I might not be a master of fitting pants, but I am a master of pinning and draping blindly on my body. It isn’t easy trying to adjust the fit on yourself. I need a body form!


Muslin of original pattern

I knew I needed to provide visual evidence of how bad things were if I didn’t make any edits to the pattern. Here’s proof of a muslin version with zero changes, not even the knocked knee alteration.

Oh heavens! I need to probably delete these photos now.

5 thoughts on “True Bias Emerson Crop Pant in Linen

  1. Thank you for another SO helpful pants fitting post 🙂 I really appreciate your work – another I’ll save for sure for future reference. I like Glenda too and didn’t know she had done a video on “knock knee” – another goodie for my youtube favourite sewing collection 🙂 I have always had this problem but as I age I’m noticing my knees are increasingly more looking at each other than straight at where they’re going!

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    1. These pants really had me frustrated, which is hilarious for such an easy pattern. Just shows you that easy to sew patterns aren’t always easy to fit patterns. Thank you as always for your kind words!

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  2. The end result is so worth your effort! These linen pants are lovely on you! Casual, comfortable, and classic! I made a pair for the first time ever and found making a muslin was SOOO important!!! I wanted to be able to sit, stand and be comfortable in these pants and in the end they were! We work hard to get there and in the end I think we learn more about how things fit our bodies! You do a masterful job explaining the cause and effect of fit! I really have learned so much from your experiences! And I adore how you keep improving your own skills as a modern seamstress! Enjoy your new found summer wear! ❤

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    1. I’m always shocked that people don’t do muslins. None of my alterations were that big but even the smallest changes can have just a profound effect on fit. I’m looking forward to these pants in my summer wardrobe. I think they’ll be the staple I’ve been missing.

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      1. Most pattern directions…the big 4 anyway, do not start out by recommending making muslins. I think people just get into a bad habit of learning how to sew THAT way. Then they feel let down when a garment doesn’t fit their shape after countless hours of quality sewing! I speak from serious experience! That is the main reason I never sewed pants before! I knew if dresses and tops were hard to fit me, no way was I going to “go below the belt” as it were!!! But I definitely have more confidence since I started making and looking at my muslins as a tool to better sewing! Just like all my other tools! They help me make better clothes in the long run! This old dog has learned a new trick that is making all the difference, and making me a happier seamstress!!! I have noticed more Indie patterns NOW recommend making that all important muslin!!! Thank goodness!!! ❤

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