Finding the perfect basic woven shirt pattern for summer wasn’t as daunting as I thought it would be. Months ago, I purchased the Butterick Pattern, B6100, because it offered separate pattern pieces for A/B, C and D cup sizes. I can’t believe I’ve waited until now to try this pattern!
I know there are a lot of basic woven shirt patterns out there and many people love Grainline Studio’s Scout Tee. However, I wanted something with custom cup sizes and was form fitting without being too blousy or too tight. I tried the Scout Tee (I wish I would have kept my muslin so I could’ve taken pictures), but like most Grainline patterns it was too tight across the shoulders and WAY too blousy around the waist. The Scout Tee just didn’t fit well and I really disliked that it has NO bust darts. Instead of trying to do major adjustments to the Scout Tee, I decided it would be easier to just try different patterns. I wasn’t motivated to make major alterations to such a simple pattern.
When I cut out the Butterick pattern, I made only two alterations. First, I did a ½” forward shoulder alteration. Second, I scooped out the front neckline a bit more. Otherwise, I cut the pattern out exactly.
As far as construction, I ignored the pattern instructions and did a simple bias binding around the neckline. I think the Butterick pattern includes a facing. If it does, I’ve clearly ignored it. My bias binding looks great and I love how it turned out.
I’m happy with the fit as it is. I could probably do a better job on fitting the back piece, but frankly, I think it’s fine for a basic shirt. I don’t look like I’m wearing a tent. The shirt is comfortable.
HandmadePhD 
Your recommendations are spot on! I too tried the Scout Tee by Grainline Studio and found that missing dart a big problem!!! I still have on shirt made out of a lovely lawn I may try to rescue, but I totally agree your Butterick is a better constructed pattern! The fit is perfect!
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I love the fit so much that I’m up to 4 shirts with this pattern already. I think I might have supplanted my love of knit t-shirts with a loose fitting woven shirt.
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Finding the best fit AND style is a win win you just have to go with! Kudos to you!!! ❤
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I have been looking for a nice woven tee pattern! I have multiple favorites for knits but I look forward to checking out this patterns for wovens. Thank you for sharing your experience!
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You’re welcome!
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Love your Tee and I fell into the Scout rabbit hole myself 🙂 I did an fba, fsa AND added back fish-eye darts and a hem facing. By the time I was done I did get a great fit but it was a fair bit of work and in the end I was rather under-inspired with the result. Oh and I cut it on the bias just for fun 🙂 I find that’s always the case with Grainline – they are rather blank canvases that you will likely need to personalize. I’m making up the Farrow Dress now and had to do that same thing – an fba, which I expanded to 2 darts (a french and one in the armhole) and 2 tucks in the back to bring it in a bit, an fsa AND an all-in-one facing for the sleeveless version which is my favourite finish for a sleeveless anyway. At the end – after all these alterations and a muslin – I love it in linen and will probably end up making a lot more. I have found Custom Fit by Vogue to be a pretty good fit without too many alterations (they also include more cup sizes) but they have very limited styles. Liesl Gibson has a couple of patterns at Butterick that also include more cup sizes.
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Oh my goodness, you really did go down the rabbit hole! That’s exactly what I was trying to avoid when I started making a basic woven shirt. I figured it would be easier to try a whole bunch of patterns then make major alterations. Thanks for the recommendations from Vogue and Liesl Gibson. I haven’t ever tried their patterns. I’ve mostly stuck with Simplicity, McCall’s, and Kwik Sew.
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