Review of Dusklyn Sweater by The Velvet Acorn

I’m gonna be honest. I don’t think I could have ever managed this pattern if I didn’t have a couple of years experience sewing and making adjustments to patterns. I made this sweater four, yes FOUR times because it took that long to figure out how to get a decent fit. Here’s the saga.

Details

• Pattern: Dusklyn Sweater by The Velvet Acorn
• Yarn: Loops & Threads Cozy Wool (DO NOT TRY TO USE ANY OTHER TYPE OF YARN)
• Crochet Needle Size: 10.00 mm
• Size & Modifications: see Version 4 pattern below

Version 1

First I tried to make this pattern using Big Twist Collection Natural Blend Yarn in a size L / XL. I was DROWNING in the sweater. The armholes were down at my waist and the arms were a foot too long!

Version 2

Next I tried to make this pattern using Big Twist Collection Natural Blend Yarn in a size S / M. Still way, way too big. I stupidly started this pattern without fully checking my stitch gauge.  I was close, but it wasn’t perfect. Rookie mistake. I tried and tried to get my stitch gauge correct, but even down at a 6.5 mm crochet hook and as tight as I could stitch, my stitches were just too big! UGHHHHH….

Version 3

Because even at 6.5 mm hook I couldn’t get my yarn to the right stitch gauge, I switched yarns. For my third attempt, I used the exact thread suggested, Loops & Threads Cozy Wool, because I was able to get the exact stitch gauge with the 10.00 mm hook. I made a size L / XL, but the pattern was still too big. Curses!!

Version 4

• Chained 42
• Work a hdc in the third chain from the hook, work a hdc in each stitch (40 sts)
• Chain 2
  • work 2 hdc in the first stitch
  • work 7 hdc, work 1 hdc (place marker in this stitch)
  • work 4 hdc, work 1 hdc (place marker in this stitch)
  • work 12 hdc, work 1 hdc (place marker in this stitch)
  • work 4 hdc, work 1 hdc (place marker in this stitch)
  • work 7 hdc
  • work 2 hdc in the last stitch (42 sts)
• Chain 2, * work a hdc in each stitch to 1 stitch before the marker, work 3 hdc in the next stitch, RMPM, work 3 hdc in the next stitch, repeat from * (3 more times), work a hdc in each stitch to end (58 sts).
• Row 1: Chain 2, * 1 hdc through the front loop, 1 hdc through the back loop, repeat from * all the across (RMPM as you get to them).
• Row 2: Chain 2, turn * work a hdc in each stitch to 1 stitch before marker, work 2 hdc in the next stitch, RMPM, work 2 hdc in the next stitch, repeat from * (3 more times), work a hdc in each stitch to end (66 sts).
• Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five more times (10 rows). This is where I begin to deviate from the pattern. The pattern says to stitch 12 rows for size S/M and 14 rows from size L/XL, but that would put the armholes down to my waist?!? I could probably still raise the armholes up and just complete 8 rows and not 10.
• Work Row 1 one more time (106 sts).
• Chain 2, work a hdc in each stitch to marker, remove marker, chain 3, skip next 22 sts, remove next marker, work a hdc in each stitch to next marker, remove marker, chain 3, skip next 22 sts, remove next marker, work a hdc in each stitch to end (64 sts + 2 chain 3 spaces, 1 under each arm). Don’t trust my stitch count. I probably really need to double-check this.
• Chain 2, * 1 hdc through the front loop, 1 hdc through the back loop, repeat from * to the chain 3 space under the arm. Work 1 hdc in first chain, work 2 hdc in next chain, 1 hdc in the last chain, repeat from * one more time, work ** 1 hdc through the front loop, 1 hdc through the back loop, repeat from ** to end (72 sts). Don’t trust my stitch count. I probably really need to double-check this.
• Row 3: Chain 2, work a hdc in each stitch to end.
• Row 4: Chain 2, * 1 hdc through the front loop, 1 hdc through the best loop, repeat from * to end.
• Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until piece measures from underarm to working row: 14 inches. Make sure to end with Row 3 worked last.
• Right side: Chain 2, * 1 hdc, 1 fpdc, repeat from * all across, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain.
• Wrong side: Chain 2, * 1 hdc, 1 bpdc, repeat from * to last stitch, 1 hdc in last stitch.
• You will not break yarn from working the bottom edge last row. Starting from the end of the last worked row, chain 2, then turn so you will now be working up the right front edge of the sweater. Work a hdc in the end of each row all along the right edge until you get to the top neckline.
• Once you have worked all along the right front edge you will be at the neckline. With out breaking yarn you will want to chain 2, and turn so you are now working along the neckline of the sweater. Work * 1 fpdc, 1 bpdc, repeating from * all across the neckline stitches.
• Once you have completed the neckline stitches this will place you at the top of the left front edge. You will now be working down the left front starting with a chain 2, then work a hdc in the end of each row all the way down to the bottom edge of the sweater. Next chain 2, turn and work back up the left front edge as follows: * 1 hdc, 1 fpdc, repeating from * all the way back up to the neckline, work 1 hdc in the very top stitch to complete the row. Break the yarn, weave in all ends.
• Start with a slip stitch in to the center stitch under the arm, chain 2, work along the wrong side of the sleeve to start, working a hdc in each stitch all across (27 sts).
• Row 5: Chain 2, work * 1 hdc through the front loop, 1 hdc through the back loop, repeat from * all across.
• Row 6: Chain 2, work 1 hdc in each stitch across.
• Repeat Rows 5 and 6 until sleeve measures approximately 10 inches. End with Row 5 worked last.
• Chain 2 hdc2tog, work a hdc in each stitch to last 2 stitches, hdc2tog (25 sts).
• Repeat Row 5
• Chain 2 hdc2tog, work a hdc in each stitch to last 2 stitches, hdc2tog (23 sts).
• Repeat Row 5
• Chain 2 hdc2tog, work a hdc in each stitch to last 2 stitches, hdc2tog (21 sts).
• Repeat Row 5
• Chain 2 hdc2tog, work a hdc in each stitch to last 2 stitches, hdc2tog (19 sts).
• Repeat Row 5
• Chain 2, * 1 hdc, 1 fpdc, repeat from * all across, work 1 hdc in remaining stitch if needed
• Chain 2, sc2tog, 1 sc, in each stitch to last 2 stitches, sc2tog.
• Break yarn leaving a tail long enough to seam up the sleeve {I left approx. a tail twice the length of the sleeve to be safe}. Turn sleeve inside out and seam up with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle, weave in all ends. Turn sleeve back right side out. Finish second sleeve.
• Make sure all ends have been woven in.

After that little adventure, I do love the sweater and I hope to be able to make more crochet sweaters this winter. I may just have to find better patterns.