Strathcona Henley by Thread Theory

I’ve been meaning to write about Ryan’s alterations to the Strathcona Henley for ages, and I’m finally getting around to it. This pattern has been in my rotation for quite a while, and it’s a great project for anyone looking to make a casual yet refined t-shirt or henley. Let’s dig into the fit, style, and some of the tweaks we made along the way.

Analyzing Style and Fit

The Strathcona Henley is designed with a slim, modern fit that strikes a nice balance between comfort and style. It’s not overly tight, but it has enough structure to give it a more tailored look, making it a versatile piece for everyday wear. You can choose between a classic crew neck or a 1-inch henley placket, which gives you two style options in one pattern. Whether you’re going for a clean, simple t-shirt or a casual henley, this pattern has you covered.

It also comes in both long and short-sleeve versions, so it works year-round. A standout feature is the higher-capped sleeves, which create a more structured fit around the shoulders. This little detail adds a subtle touch of refinement that makes the shirt feel more put together, even if you’re just throwing it on with jeans.

If you want to learn more about sleeve cap fit check out this video:

The pattern is meant to be used with light to medium-weight knit fabrics. This opens up a lot of possibilities—you can make anything from a lightweight t-shirt to a cozy sweater-like top, depending on the fabric you choose. The knit fabric makes the fit flexible and comfortable, allowing for easy movement and a bit of stretch. Plus, you’ve got options for finishing the sleeves and hem. You can go for a turned hem for a neat, polished look, or add bands for a more casual, laid-back vibe.

Sizing

The size range is atrocious. The pattern ranges from 34 to 44-inch chest and 28 to 38-inch waist, which really isn’t enough to cater to a wide range of body types.

	XS	S	M	L	XL
Chest	34-36	36-38	38-40	40-42	42-44
Waist	28-30	30-32	32-34	34-36	36-38

It’s also helpful to check the final garment measurements to see how the finished shirt will fit.

	XS	S	M	L	XL
Chest Width	16-3/4	17-3/4	18-3/4	19-3/4	20-3/4
Shoulder Width	14-3/4	15-3/8	16	16-5/8	17-1/4

Body Measurements

Ryan’s measurements make him a bit of an outlier when it comes to sizing. His chest is currently 39 inches, and his waist is 32 inches, which puts him in a size medium or large based on the chart. However, he’s wearing an XL in this pattern. When I first made this shirt for him, his chest was closer to 42 inches, and his waist was 36 inches, which lined up with the XL sizing at the time.

Even though his measurements have shifted, the shirt still fits well, largely because it accommodates his wider shoulders. His shoulder width is 17-3/4 inches, which is a bit broader than the XL shoulder width. This just goes to show that when choosing your size, shoulder width can be just as important as chest and waist measurements.