I made yet another pair of elastic waistband shorts for summer. My first pair was a simple style (Tula from Papercut). My second pair was the Pomona from Anna Allen, featuring no side seam. My third pair is the Dani from True Bias. This pair is unique because I made View A, which includes a zippered fly front, even though the waistband is elastic. I’ve also tried new-to-me fabric for all of these shorts. I hadn’t used Tencel until now because I was worried it would be staticky. So far, static is not an issue at all.
Analyzing Style and Fit
The Dani shorts have an elastic waistband, inseam and rear pockets, a paper bag waist, and leg and center front options. Views A and C are shorts, and Views B and D are pants. Views A and B use a zip-fly construction with two small buttons at the waist. Views C and D include a full elastic waistband with no additional closures.
One thing I noticed about these shorts is an excess of fabric gathers on the back pieces. This results in fabric pooling along the center back. I don’t love the look on my body.
Materials and Notions
I made my shorts using Meet Milk Lane Jacquard in Cider. The material is a medium-weight jacquard weave fabric made with TENCEL. The material is 200 g/m2 (~6 oz) and has a fluid drape. I suggest a lightweight fabric with a flowy, fluid drape for this pattern. This pattern is definitely not intended for a stiff fabric or thick fabric. The lighter, the better.
Sizing and Version
Body Measurements
| Size | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37.5 | 39 | 40.5 | 42.5 | 44.5 |
| Waist | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31.5 | 33 | 34.5 | 36.5 | 38.5 |
| Hip | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39.5 | 41 | 42.5 | 44.5 | 46.5 |
My current body measurements are a 36-inch waist and a 44-inch hip. If I consider my anterior tilting pelvis, my hip measures 46 inches. Based on my waist, I should make a size 16, but based on my adjusted hip measurement, I should make a size 18. The instructions suggest, “Use your hip measurement as your main guide in choosing a size. Because of the elastic waistband and overall ease of the pattern, check the finished measurements chart before blending sizes.” Let’s see what the final garment table suggests.
Final Garment Measurements
| Size | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist w/o elastic | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40.5 | 42 | 43.5 | 45.5 | 47.5 |
| Elastic | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29.5 | 31 | 32.5 | 34.5 | 36.5 |
| Hip | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43.5 | 45 | 46.5 | 48.5 | 50.5 |
| Length | 14 | 14.25 | 14.5 | 14.75 | 15 | 15.25 | 15.5 | 15.75 | 16 | 16.25 |
Looking at the final garment measurement, I find myself in a bit of a conundrum. The 45.5-inch waist without elastic on Size 16 would work for me and make it over my 44-inch hips. The size 16 hip measures 48.5 inches, which is larger than my 47-inch seated hip measurement. Great. It looks like I should adjust my size from 18 to 16? However, look at the recommended elastic cut chart (i.e., waist with elastic). The size 16 waist with elastic will be slightly less than 34.5 inches once you sew the elastic together. That is too small for my waist measurement. The size 18 waist with elastic is approximately 36.5 inches and is a much more appropriate measurement for my body.
The body and final garment chart give some hints as to how these shorts should fit. They should have a ton of ease throughout the torso and hips and only be fitted at the waistband. Even though it might look like I need to go with a size 16, the size 18 will fit my waist better and give me the extra ease intended for my hips.
Version
I made View A, shorts with a zip fly and two buttons at the waist, in size 18.
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