
This will be my final blog post about men’s jogger patterns. My three-part series walks you through my process with any new pant pattern I encounter:
- Measure key parts of the new pattern.
- Starting at the center of the ankle draw a vertical line up to the waistband as your center grainline.
- Measure the inside and outside width at the ankle, knee, crotch (bottom of the crotch curve), hip (top of the crotch curve), and waistband.
- Compare measurements to other pant patterns that I know fit.
- Align your patterns vertically along the center grainline and horizontally at the hip level because crotch and waistlines levels vary.
- Make adjustments to the drape.
- Center the knee, if not centered.
- At the hip level, adjust the distance from the center back and front to the grainline.
- Make adjustments to the crotch hook length.
This post is all about the crotch area and making sure to get the crotch length and the location of the crotch point correct. For more information about why these measurements matter, check out my previous post, “Balancing Front and Back Crotch Hook Lengths.”
Patterns
Here’s a list of all the patterns included in this comparison guide:
- Grasser No191 (click here for Pinterest Board)
- True Bias Men’s Hudson (click here for Pinterest Board)
- Green Style Iron (click here for Pinterest Board)
- Sinclair Lakeside (click here for Pinterest Board)
- Jalie 3909 Henri (click here for Pinterest Boad)
For each of these patterns, I selected the size associated with a hip measurement of ~42 inches and chose the longest length possible:
- Grasser No191, size 56, height 188-194 cm, Version 1
- True Bias, 36
- Green Style, XL, 34″ x-long inseam
- Sinclair, 42/L, tall
- Jalie, AA
If you would like to download Ryan’s pattern, scroll to the bottom of this post. There is a download button to his pattern on Gumroad.
To review the alterations that have been made, check out my previous post. Grainline at the knee and hip level have all been adjusted to match Ryan’s shape.
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