My Perfect Bra: Maeve Design Studio Celeste, Closet Core Patterns Céline, LilypaDesigns Mysa

Content Warning: This post contains medical content and images related to surgery, including visible blood and clots from my dad’s lungs at the end of the post. Please proceed with care if you’re sensitive to that kind of content.

After my disappointing experience with the LilypaDesign Mysa pattern, I needed a new bralette pattern that might actually work. I stumbled across the Celeste by Maeve Design. However, the pattern is not size inclusive. So I also purchased the Céline from Closet Core Patterns, which has a similar look but with a broader size range, just so I could show you both.

Style and Fit

My idea of a perfect bra? One front piece with a bust dart for shaping, a 4-hook-and-eye closure in the back, adjustable 5/8 inch wide straps, a 5/8 inch elastic band, and 3/8 inch elastic for the arms and neckline. Simple, no-frills.

Materials and Notions

I used Tech Sheen fabric from Bra Builders—a 220 gsm nylon-spandex blend with just the right amount of stretch. I also got all my notions from Bra Builders:

• 4-hook-and-eye closures
• 3/8 inch and 5/8 inch band elastic with a picot edge
• 5/8 inch strap elastic
• 5/8 inch rings and slides

Sizing

UK Size	Bust	Waist	Hip
6	30	23	32
8	32	25	34
10	34	27	36
12	36	29	38
14	38	31	40
16	40	33	42
18	42	35	44

My current measurements are 40 inches bust, 33 inches waist, and 42 inches hips—right at a size 16. I still expected to make a few fit tweaks, but at least choosing a size didn’t require a doctorate in mathematics like the Mysa.

Alterations

The original Celeste pattern uses 1/4 inch picot elastic everywhere. I wanted 3/8 inch for the arms and neckline and 5/8 inch for the band. To avoid confusion between fit changes and elastic size adjustments, I removed seam allowance from my pattern pieces in the diagram above. That way, I’m comparing apples to apples.

Here’s what I changed:

• Widened the bust dart by 1/2 inch on each side
• Smoothed out the bottom band shaping
• Widened the back piece to fit a 4-hook-and-eye closure (the original used a much smaller one)
• Added 3/8 inch to the top of the front side seam to keep it from pulling forward

The original pattern had the center back cut on the fold and left you guessing where to put the closure. My version builds in the space needed for the 4-hook-and-eye.