Wiksten Haori House Coat

This will be a short post about my Wiksten haori since the pattern did not require extensive alterations. After my failed quilted jacket that I ended up giving to my mother, I think I might have hit gold with my haori.

Materials

I went kind of wild for the materials. Years ago, I made blankets for our beds using heavyweight linen (7.1 oz/yd2) from the Fabrics-Store. I updated our bedding this year but didn’t want to just toss the linen blankets. I knew I could use the fabric to make a housecoat, and that’s exactly what I used for the main fabric of my haori. For the lining, I wanted to replicate a housecoat I already own. Years and years ago, before I knew how to sew, I bought myself a housecoat from Gap with this soft and warm sherpa lining on the inside. I wanted my haori to have the same lining. I purchased Birch organic fabrics sherpa since it is 100% cotton and doesn’t contain any polyester. I’m not a fan of polyester. I bought the fabric on sale, so I had no choice other than navy blue.

Size

The haori is oversized and forgiving. Based on my measurements (39″ bust, 33″ waist, 42.5″ hips), I made a size L in the longest length.

Alterations

I made two minor alterations. The first was to lengthen the arms by several inches. The second alteration was to move the shoulder seam to adjust for my forward-thrusting shoulders. I’ve documented how to make a forward shoulder alteration on a shoulder seam like this before when I made Hey June Handmade’s Willamette Shirt.

Construction

For the most part, I didn’t do anything off-script for the construction. My only concern was the heavy lining stretching out beyond the linen since the sherpa is a knit fabric and easily stretches. I lined up the side seams and stitched-in-the-ditch to hold the outer and lining together to stabilize the jacket. So far, that seems like just enough stabilization that the lining isn’t going to sag in weird ways.

Conclusion

I love my jacket. It is perfectly oversized, warm, and cozy. I was really unsure how well my fabrics would pair together, but everything worked out just fine.

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