I Finally Made a Halifax Hoodie

I realize I’m behind the trend, but I finally made a Halifax Hoodie!! I stopped sewing new patterns nearly 8 – 9 months ago establish my fit and Ryan’s fit through duct tape body forms. I was wasting time and money trying patterns and making a toile – or a muslin – over and over and over and OVER again to get the fit just OK. Yes, I am a FIRM believer of making a toile or muslin, which is an initial mock-up of a garment made in a cheap fabric so you can check and alter how the pattern fits your body before cutting into your nice fabric. Because my fit is so drastically different from the pattern, I have to test fit. I’d be crazy not to!

After my duct tape adventures last year, I have pretty much established a basic fit for tops with my t-shirt pattern (see here) and the Love Notions pattern I recently made (see here). Therefore, I just went straight into altering this pattern. And yes, after I made my alterations, I made a mock-up using cheap fleece from JoAnn. The fit was tighter because fleece has less stretch than the sweatshirt knit I used for this hoodie, but it gave me enough info about the general structure and overall fit. I have found that with my test versions, the small changes needed are rather obvious given I’m 98% there with my initial alterations.

SIZING

I’ve made a couple of other things from Hey June Handmade, and her pattern sizing is well-drafted. Based on my measurements I cut out a size XL and that size, besides my alterations, is absolutely the perfect size. If you are making this hoodie, you can go directly from the size chart.

FABRIC

I used the same fabric that I did for my Love Notions pullover. The material is EIKE sweatshirt knit from Swafing and consists of 95% cotton and 5% elastane.

ALTERATIONS

For my comparison, the original pattern is in gray (size XL), and my pattern after alterations is in pink. The thing to note is that I did not have to lengthen the pattern for my height! Shocker. I normally have to add a few inches to the length of the body or sleeves of most patterns to fit my height.

Let’s start with the front and back pieces. For the front (left side):

  1. Lower shoulder seam 1¾”
  2. Forward shoulder alteration
  3. Lower neckline 2″
  4. Broad shoulder and neck alteration
  5. Scoop out the arm hole
  6. Narrow at the waistline ½”

For the back (right side):

  1. Lower shoulder seam
  2. Forward shoulder alteration
  3. Lower neckline 1¾”
  4. Broad shoulder and neckline alteration
  5. Narrow at the waistline ½”
  6. Narrow along center back because it was too wide all around

For the sleeve:

  1. Reduce the width at the bicep. Luckily the wrist was the perfect width.
  2. Reduce the height of the cap or shoulder on my sleeve a bit

With all the alterations I also had to alter the hoodie. I found out later. Luckily I had enough fabric leftover to cut out the hood a second time when I realized it wasn’t going to fit! I had no idea how to widen the hood along the neckline, but I did my best.

CONCLUSIONS

I am so happy I have an idea of how to fit patterns to my body. It still takes work to test patterns, but I have a good idea of where I need to go with my alterations. I do love this pattern and will keep it in my library to make again. Now I need to find a way to make Ryan his own hoodie!


6 thoughts on “I Finally Made a Halifax Hoodie

  1. I like the hood on this pattern much better than the Love Notions 3 part one. Also are you still using bias tape on your neck band? I’ve only made the kid’s versions so I’m not assuming anything. But I do know some people use KNIT as their tape closure. I wonder if you think that may give you that cleaner finish you’re looking for? 🙂

    This looks amazing on you by the way!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I would definitely try something different for the neckband to get a cleaner finish. Bias tape on the neckband is going to be a bit difficult and hard to get a nice finish. I feel like I need to go to the mall and look at construction on similar clothes to get a better idea on how to do this cleaner.

      Liked by 1 person

    1. The visible / outer part of the fabric still looks like it did day one. It’s perfect. The fluffy fleece inside is clumping a little bit on super high wear areas, but it isn’t bad. I actually have no pilling on the sweatshirts, only on the crotch area of my sweatpants. I love the fabric and will be buying more this winter for more warm sweaters and sweatpants.

      Liked by 1 person

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