Ryan is absolutely giddy over this pattern, Love Notions North Star Pullover, and loves the kangaroo pocket and zipped front. I’m sure I’ll be making many more of these pullovers for him. However, it took me three attempts to get this pattern to fit as Ryan wanted. My only criticism is that it has way too much ease added, 3 inches (for size XS) up to 6 inches (for sizes XL+). I would say that if you make this pattern, size down for sure unless you want a super-duper baggy sweatshirt. But in my experience baggy often means constrictive, so that’s why both Ryan and I prefer a slightly more tailored fit. A more fitted garment typically has more freedom of movement because you don’t have excess fabric getting in the way.
Let’s start with Ryan’s body measurements: chest is 41 inches, waist is 37 inches, and hip is 42 inches. According to the size chart above, Ryan should fit a size large. However, the final garment has 5 inches of ease in the chest and 5½ inches of ease in the waist, and that’s way too much!! In the end, I ignored the pattern and drafted my own version based off of Ryan’s torso block. My drafted version is actually closer to a size medium.
I’ll try to talk about some of the alterations for this pattern since the differences are quite extensive. For comparison, I am showing a size medium even though based on the size chart I should have sewn a size large. The original pattern is in the red / pink color (size medium), and the altered pattern for Ryan is in blue.
- The front and back pieces were lengthened by several inches.
- The sleeve was lengthened about an inch.
- For the front piece, the shoulder and neck were widened, and the armhole was raised. I also did a forward shoulder alteration on the front piece only.
- For the back piece, the shoulder and neck were widened.
- The arm width was narrowed by over an inch at the bicep.
I should also talk about the fabric I used for this pattern. The material is EIKE sweatshirt knit from Swafing and consists of 95% cotton and 5% elastane. It is both breathable and pliable. The weight of the fabric is 245 g/m2. It is warm but not too hot, and the reverse side is brushed, so it feels heavenly. This sweatshirt knit is perfect.
Because the North Star pullover is made with a knit fabric, you only need an inch or two of ease to give you a loose-fitting garment, not 5+ inches. That much ease is even a bit excessive for woven fabrics. For Ryan, size medium gives 2½ inches of ease in the chest, 6½ inches of ease in the waist, and 1 inch of ease in the hips. That is plenty of ease for this type of garment. Hence, size down if you sew this pattern or at least use the finished garment size to guide you and not the body size. For reference, Ryan was easily able to layer this over an undershirt and button-down shirt.