True Bias Lodo Dress in Ponte Knit

I had this goal in 2018 to sew “date night” outfits for my husband and me. However, I could never find the time. Therefore, I’m starting 2019 by getting back on track with my sewing goals. I’ve had this ponte knit fabric in my stash for 2+ years and never knew what pattern to use. The fabric has 2-way stretch, but the border is along the selvage edge, so I had to cut my pieces perpendicular to the grainline. Unfortunately, now my fabric stretches up and down but not across the body. I knew I’d have to find a pretty basic pattern that would allow me to feature the cool border along the selvage edge. I also wanted the pattern to be basic, so I didn’t have to worry about a lot of fitting. In the end I choose to make True Bias Lodo Dress, because it is just an elevated t-shirt dress that features a subtle cocoon shape. I did sew a test version because I wasn’t just going to cut into my precious stash fabric.

Let’s talk details about the pattern and fit. I’m smackdab size 14 in True Bias patterns. However, I still had to make some pretty big adjustments to get the pattern to fit — no surprise that I had to do a forward shoulder alteration and shorten the front shoulder length. These are my standard alterations for most patterns.

  1. Did ½-inch forward shoulder alteration on the back piece
  2. Lowered the front shoulder by 1-inch
  3. Did ½-inch forward shoulder alteration on the front piece
  4. Graded the waist to size 8 between the two notches on front and back pieces
  5. Raised the hem of View A by 3-inches on front and back pieces. I did not change the location of the split in the skirt.
  6. (Not shown) I had to adjust all the facing pieces to match the alterations I made to the neckline and armhole

The reason I shortened the dress length was to make it look better under the Fulton sweater blazer that I intend to sew for this outfit. It was entirely a matter of preference and nothing to do with the dress pattern itself. I thought the length was great just not great for wearing under a jacket that’s all.

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