I’m excited to be sewing new patterns since most of 2018 was dedicated to drafting basic patterns from my duct tape body forms. Now I can put that effort to good use. I decided to try out the Fulton sweater blazer from Alina Sewing + Design Co. and made alterations even before sewing my first test version. I trust my sloper, so I can use it to make edits immediately. This blog post is about all the alterations I had to make to the pattern. It’s quite dramatic and extensive.
First off, my measurements fit perfectly for a size 14, so that’s my starting point. Second, the fabric I used was a medium to heavyweight sweatshirt fleece, Telio Drake Sweatshirt Fleece. Let’s dive into alterations.
- I lengthened the back shoulder by 1-inch, which fell directly on the size 18 line. I cut out a size 18 from CB across the neckline and along the shoulder. This worked perfectly because then I could just cut out a size 18 for piece E, the back facing.
- Widened the shoulder seam by ½-inch. The shoulders were too narrow. I graded the width down to the notch in the armhole.
- I shortened the front shoulder by 1-inch, which fell directly on the size 6 line. This is convenient as well because then I could just cut out a size 6 for piece F, the collar. For piece D, the front facing, I just trimmed it to match my jacket front after I was done with all the alterations.
- Widened the shoulder seam by ½-inch and graded the width down to the notch in the armhole.
- Did a ½-inch forward shoulder alteration.
- Removed ⅜-inch from the lower armhole so that I had room to move my arms.
- (Not shown) I lengthened the sleeves by 2-inches. I did not alter the sleeve cap or sleeve width. I just cut out a size 14 sleeve and lengthened it.
These alterations are precisely the same alterations I would have to make in my t-shirt comparison blog. I don’t know what’s nicer, knowing my body form, or knowing that most patterns are the same and will require very similar alterations. I’m super happy with how it turned out. The sweater hits me right at the top of my knees, which is perfect. Now to buy some beautiful boiled wool fabric and take it up a notch!